That is probably because high-fat butter softens and melts faster. (Tie) Lucerne (Safeway) and Land O' Lakes. The biggest difference in Kerrygold butter starts with the milk. The milk that is used to produce this butter is from cows that eat grass. We used the average of the two scores. Because of butter’s low melting point, the dough tends to spread during baking before the structure sets. A 2012 study published in the "Scandinavian Journal of Primary Health Care" reviewed the overall health of a group of middle-aged rural Swedes. European-style butter is slow churned and cultured which creates a creamier texture with less moisture. Twelve years after the initial survey, participants with a high intake of dairy fat had the lowest rate of central obesity, while those with the lowest consumption of dairy fat had the highest rates. Since production varies, depending on how many nonfat products are sold (which enables the dairy to siphon off the extra cream) and how much milk the cows produce, Straus often freezes its butter for later sale when supplies may be low. Its butterfat content is 82%, which … The butterfat (also known as milk fat) is found in small, round globules surrounded by a membrane of phospholipids and lipoproteins. All of the samples we tried had a variety of dates, many extending into 2001. Although our favorite was Cremerie Classique, coming in at about 82 percent butterfat, the second place winners -- Lucerne and Land O' Lakes -- just met the U.S. Department of Agriculture standard of 80 percent. Président. The Difference Between Salted and Unsalted Butter The only real difference between salted and unsalted butter is literally the salt: All butter is made from milkfat in cream and contains at least 80 percent milkfat, 18 percent water, and 2 percent solids (mainly protein and salt), explains Jen Giambroni, a dairy expert with Real California Milk. This portable charger is $14 and can charge your phone 6... How a virtual movie club has helped me survive the pandemic, Silliker Laboratories of Northern California. One butter executive advises buying butter in November when it is cheaper and freezing it. 1. These butters are not cultured, so expect a more neutral flavor. The remainder consists of water and a small quantity of milk solids. Eventually, the milk solids in the butter sink to the bottom and begin to brown. Other butters tasted included Clover Stornetta, Challenge, Horizon, Straus Family Creamery, Organic Valley, Tillamook, Luvpak Danish, Challenge European, Plugra and Beurre President. The Cremerie Classique sauce had a slightly sharper flavor from the wine and vinegar reduction. Although butterfat is typically 82% in Europe, in the US most butter is actually 80% (US dictated minimum). Butterfat composition and types of butter. Although The Chronicle's Best Way column recommends using equal parts of shortening and butter in a pie crust, we prepared all-butter crusts for our test. Milk fat and butter fat are therefore the same thing, varying only in their concentration. Although butter prices change regularly, we watched the price over the course of several weeks and it never rose above $4 a pound. If you allow unpasteurized milk to stand, it separates into cream (mostly butterfat) and skim milk (mostly water). . But the labels for Straus Family Creamery (a Northern California dairy) at 85% butterfat and Vermont Creamery at 88% butterfat are also the same: both read 12 grams of fat and 110 calories per 1 T. serving. When Put to the Test, Here's How Butter Brands Stack Up, In 1999, California, the second largest producer of butter in the nation, produced 343 million pounds of butter. I live in Canada, where a breadth of butterfat options are available, but butters with butterfat ratios above 80 tend to be quite pricey. Irish butter brands usually follow the European standard of producing butter with an 82% butterfat content, though there are variations. The Land O' Lakes crust was bland, but had a crisp flake and more height. The Cremerie Classique cake was tender, but not quite as light as the Land O' Lakes cake. © Copyright 2020 Hearst Communications, Inc. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen; Harold McGee. It also tasted saltier and had a pronounced butter flavor. Butter is almost entirely fat, as it is made by separating out the fat and then whipping it to encourage it to coalesce into a mass. Near perfection. -- The Bottom Line: The flavor and aroma of Straus made it a clear winner. Fred Decker is a trained chef and certified food-safety trainer. Very wrong. Butterfat ranged from the legal minimum of 80 percent to nearly 86 percent. We used the butterfat and moisture levels, which are listed in an accompanying chart, to determine which butters to test in cooking. After much discussion with baking and science experts, we concluded that the high amount of fat in the Straus cake kept it from developing as tender a texture. Land O’Lakes European butter contains 82 percent, while American butters are only required to contain 80. The packaging on some sticks of unsalted butter boasts their contents have an 85% butterfat content. That high fat content makes it great tasting, but the vital statistics include 12 grams of fat , 8 of which are saturated fat, and 31 milligrams of cholesterol. Sweet Cream Butter. Butter tends to be cheaper in November than in December, when more people bake. It's creamy and rich from butterfat, but not so high in fat that it is overwhelming. The high-fat Straus butter made a sauce that was thicker, deeper in color and decidedly buttery. -- 2. Prices generally drop again in January. Therefore, sell-by dates wouldn't mean much. "It always has the best results." We sent them to a laboratory for scientific analysis. Butterfat contains about 3% trans fat, which is slightly less than 0.5 grams per US tablespoon. Berkeley Farms. To see just how different the spread would be, I baked two batches of our Self-Rising Crunchy Sugar Cookies (one made with all butter, one with all shortening), for another shortening vs. butter in baking comparison. Butter is a natural food made from milk, while margarine is a processed food made from chemically altered vegetable oils. Many of the butters received low scores because they had off-flavors which we surmised they had picked up during transport or on the supermarket shelf. From 2000 to 2014, the average annual producer protein price was higher than butterfat every year. Modern cookbooks turn that around, referring to butter by its milk fat content. The Cremerie Classique crust was flaky but not as crisp and had a buttery flavor. Surprisingly, a high butterfat content wasn't the key to the best-tasting butter. He's held positions selling computers, insurance and mutual funds, and was educated at Memorial University of Newfoundland and the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology. The crust test illuminates a great debate among some bakers. The strong flavor appealed to some for eating at the table but others thought it would be too rich for baking. In the Land O' Lakes cake, the steam created by the extra moisture and the lighter butterfat made for a lighter cake. The fat in milk naturally takes the shape of tiny spheres, or globules, because of tiny lipid molecules that adhere to fats at one end and repel water at the other. The butter we all know and love is of the sweet cream variety. We whisked them into beurre blanc and baked them into pound cake. -- The Bottom Line: Cremerie Classique had the best balance of rich butter flavor and performance. Supermarkets like Safeway, which sells Lucerne butter, will offer discounts on their house brand to beat out competitors like Challenge or Land O' Lakes. . The primary difference between grass-fed and regular butter is whether the cows used to produce the butter were allowed to graze on grass or were fed … This French import is slightly oily and has a light tang and rustic look. If you like rich, butter flavor and prefer a courser cake, go for the Straus. Grass-fed milk has a richer taste and is creamier, thus why Kerrygold butter has … This French standard, which involves simply melting butter until it browns, is making a comeback as a simple sauce for vegetables and fish. The three cakes we baked couldn't have been more different. New studies suggest that this might not be the case, however. A Chronicle survey of prices in November and December showed vast differences between months and between stores. The Straus cake was rich in butter flavor and had a course, rustic texture. This keeps them from pooling together like the oil in your vinaigrette, but they're still lighter than the watery whey and will tend to rise to the top of the milk. This test was so interesting that we ended up repeating it four times. Market pressures also affect prices, industry executives say. If you're both a health-conscious diner and a cookbook enthusiast, you may have noticed that the terminology in your cookbooks changes over time. For complete results, see the accompanying chart. Sweet cream butter is made from butter that is fresh and sweet tasting, rather than aged and tart. Once baked, the Straus crust was the flatest, and was soft and just slightly crisp. When it comes to flavor, our panel discovered that how a butter is stored makes almost as much difference as how much flavor-giving butterfat it contains. As you noted, the nutrition facts counts for Land O' Lakes at 80% butterfat and Kerrygold at 82% butterfat are the same. Each butter may have been exposed to any number of problems in shipping, storage, stock rotation or packaging, all of which can affect the delicate taste. The Cremerie Classique sauce had what looked like fine pepper sprinkled throughout and a light nutty butter flavor. Looking to discover the difference cultured butter can make? To make clarified butter, you simmer unsalted butter in a pan over low heat. Our cultured butter also has less moisture than sweet cream butter, which also boasts great results in cooking and baking. -- 1. Not all butter is created equal! The fat in butter is much more concentrated than it is in milk, averaging approximately 80 percent of the butter's weight. Vermont Cultured Salted Butter. And that’s what you get when you purchase unsalted butter or sweet cream butter, which is simply salted butter. -- 5. Full-fat milk is usually homogenized at the dairy, a process that makes the fat globules so small they'll remain evenly dispersed throughout the milk and not separate, as they otherwise would. In the United States, fat-free skimmed milk or low-fat partially skimmed milk, with much of that fat removed, have taken their place in health-conscious diets. Others prefer the rich mouthfeel and flavor of high-fat butter, especially when it comes to croissants and puff pastry. It's not subtle. It is available at markets like Andronico's and Whole Foods. The best news may be that it is a relative bargain. The best source of butterfat in ice cream for high quality flavour and convenience is fresh sweet cream from fresh sweet milk. Here are the results: . 3. Chronicle photo by Frederic Larson; styling by Ethel Brennan, Bay Area official posts 'citizens take arms' during Capitol riot, New 2021 shows we're excited about on Netflix, HBO, Hulu and more, Apple, Google block Parler app from their stores, QAnon promoter who stormed Capitol upset he's being called antifa, This is what happens when you drink a gallon of water a day, Bay Area candy shop trashed online after owner seen at DC rally, I visited the tallest tree in the world and do not recommend this, Alameda police issue warning after disturbing prowling reports, 'SoHo Karen's' bizarre 'apology' interview a mistake, lawyer says, Police: 1 dead, 6 injured in Bay Area highway crash, Newsom says he won't compel schools to reopen, Inside the siege: Trapped aides beg for help as cops lost control, 7 expensive home fitness machines worth buying. Fat in Butter The fat in butter is much more concentrated than it is in milk, averaging approximately 80 percent of the butter's weight. Others said it was simply yummy. Most breeds average 3.5 percent to 4 percent butter fat. This European-style butter from Raven Creamery Co. in Portland, Ore. is sweet, with hints of vanilla and tang and lots of old- fashioned butter flavor. Butterfat, also called Milk Fat, natural fatty constituent of cows’ milk and the chief component of butter. Abroad, the minimum is 82 percent; here, it’s 80 percent; everywhere, it’s lower for salted butter. Celles sur Belle. It's light-colored, mild and slightly grassy tasting. In 2013, protein was almost double the price of butterfat, $3.30 per pound to $1.66 per pound. Many researchers are now revisiting the earlier assumptions about dairy fat and its relationship to health concerns, in search of a better and more nuanced understanding of the mechanisms involved. Decker wrote for the Saint John, New Brunswick Telegraph-Journal, and has been published in Canada's Hospitality and Foodservice magazine. It's like a sponge, and the longer it sits around in a grocery store the more flavors it picks up. What’s the big deal? In older cookbooks, you might find cream, milk and low-fat milk described in terms of their content of butter fat. The only marking on samples were numbers, and each butter was tested twice. One butter, Challenge, tasted so salty that we were sure it had been mislabeled as sweet butter. One of the advantages of multiple component pricing is: It provides clear pricing signals to dairy farmers in regards to the economic value of milk components. It was so rich, in fact, that it masked all the other flavors. The Cremerie Classique cake seemed like a good compromise, with a lighter texture. If you think all butters are pretty much the same, you would be wrong. European-Style Butter. However, the dairy plans to put pull dates on its new packages in the future. Vivien Straus attributes that to the vagaries of her small dairy. "Fat really absorbs moisture molecules quite well. The remaining traces of milk are rinsed out of the butterfat in cold water and the mass is compressed into a solid lump or brick of butter. Butterfat. The fat content of whole milk can vary among individual cows, among breeds or even from month to month as the animal's fodder changes. Are you still trying to unlock the secret behind a perfectly flakey pie crust? Consumers can't even count on sell-by dates, since those are not required by law and and can be arbitrarily set by the manufacturer. While American butter contains just 80% butterfat, European butter has been churned for a longer period of time, giving it 82% butterfat. The Land O' Lakes sauce was more uniform in color, with a few flecks and a neutral flavor. Cremerie Classique is made by Raven Creamery in Portland, OR, a small dairy employing just 11 people. -- The Bottom Line: It comes down to personal preference. It is a simpler modification of the Babcock method with special butyrometers for various dairy products. Lucerne surprised us with its mild dairy notes and fresh taste, which some described as almost floral. Gerber Butterfat Content Determination Method. Land O' Lakes, from Minnesota, was characterized as the classic American butter. While that changes its quality slightly, the savings can sometimes be as much as $1 per pound. The lipids or fats point into the center of the globule, while the phosphates or proteins like the watery liquid outside of the globules. (And is the reason why European butter is so expensive—it's often 85 percent fat.) Lower fat content means that the butter contains more water, but that's not necessarily a bad thing, especially for baking. A more natural diet, produce a better milk, and then better butter. When mixed with shortening, it should produce a crust with even better flake. How Is Fat Separated From Milk to Make Skim Milk? European butter contains about 82 percent butterfat, while ours tops out at 80 percent. It has nearly 85 percent butterfat vs. approximately 80 percent for regular (American) butter. For a series of performance tests, we selected the butter with the highest fat content (Straus Family Creamery, at almost 86 percent), the butter with the lowest fat content and the highest water content (Land O' Lakes with 80 percent fat and almost 18 percent water) and our favorite table butter, Cremerie Classique (82 percent fat and about 16 percent moisture). A 2013 meta-study published in the "European Journal of Nutrition" reviewed 16 earlier studies, with similar results. This rich butter is made in Ireland and has a pale yellow color, because it is made from grass-fed cow’s milk, free of antibiotics and hormones, with 82 percent butterfat. They all begin with whole milk, which consists of three components: water, milk solids, and butterfat. The theory here is that the fat coats the tongue, canceling out the sharpness of the other ingredients in the sauce. The standards for the minimum amount of butterfat in butter are different in Europe and America. In order for a churned dairy product to be considered butter, it must contain at least 80 percent butterfat. Perhaps it’s that extra bit along with this butter’s perfect balance of cream and salt. Clarified butter is butter with the water and milk proteins removed, leaving a composition of 99-100% pure butterfat. Other sources include butter or anhydrous milkfat. . Certainly, Plugra fresh from the Pennsylvania factory might have beaten our favorites in the taste test, but we wanted to compare the sort of butter available to shoppers off the grocer's shelf. Branded as “France’s #1 Butter,” Président has a high fat content—and that’s why we’re … Does Butter Really Make Everything Better? One camp prefers a high-moisture butter to get the crispness and lift that comes when water turns to steam and explodes the fat globules that surround it. This mild, sweet butter, made in Hayward, tastes fresh with a slight tang. It is a rush of tangy, salty … What Are the Benefits of Ingesting Coconut Oil? That extra 2% of butterfat … Generations of health professionals have advised the public to limit their consumption of butter and other full-fat dairy products because saturated fat consumption had been associated with increased risk of cardiovascular disease and obesity. This butter is not discreet. Beyond butterfat, there is another important distinction between American and Irish butters—the U.S. has a much stricter grading system than Ireland does when it comes to assessing butter. Butterfat definition is - the natural fat of milk and chief constituent of butter consisting essentially of a mixture of glycerides (such as those derived from butyric, capric, caproic, and caprylic acids). Whole milk usually has around 3.5% butterfat. To determine the difference in moisture content, butterfat, salt and milk solids, we turned to the scientists. In a blind tasting, some of the expensive, high-fat butters Bay Area chefs swear by scored very low because they had slightly musty, off flavors probably picked up from store refrigeration. Salted butter typically contains 1-2% salt by weight, or about a 1/4 teaspoon of salt per stick. Shortages in cream supplies and higher demand can drive prices up, as was the case in 1998 and early 1999. American butter is usually around 80 percent fat, although the exact amount varies from brand to brand. In 2015, the shift started – th… We ate them plain and spread them on bread. The more fat, the less balanced the sauce. According to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, a single teaspoon of butter contains 4 grams of fat, of which 2.5 grams is saturated fat. The distinctions between different kinds of milk and cream labels can be confusing. The differences in taste and performance amazed our team of tasters. Butter is a dairy product made from milk or cream. The company started making the premium butter a couple of years ago at the urging of some French bakers. Whipping cream can have between 30 and 35%, and heavy cream has at least 36%. Because the percentage of milk solids differs in each butter, and those solids become dark brown particles in the sauce, each sample looked different. Horizon was $3.99 in November and $4.99 in December at Andronico's; at Safeway, Tillamook was $2.89 in November and $4.19 in December. Because Straus butter is made from cows that graze and isn't ultra- pasteurized or cultured, it is particularly volatile. The Chronicle spent several weeks exploring 15 widely available brands of unsalted butter. -- The Bottom Line: Land O' Lakes makes the best beurre blanc. That extra 2 percent is usually made up of fat, which helps the butter become the delectable, spreadable texture you know and love. Saturated Fats Are Primarily Found in What Groups? Price: $$ Plugrá is a European style butter that was specifically designed to produce superior baked goods. Somebody walking by with strong perfume on or even a cart with three crabs in it can affect the flavor," says Marc Halperin, culinary director at San Francisco's Center for Culinary Development. The remainder consists of … The Land O' Lakes cake had a much lighter texture and the flavor faded quickly. Irish butter's superiority in one creamy secret. In making the pastry, there was little noticeable difference in the three brands of butter, although it appeared that the Straus butter blended into the dough quicker. Distribution is limited to a few Western states. The Straus sauce looked like coarse pepper had been sprinkled over it. The people who run the Safeway dairy labs in Walnut Creek agreed to send our set of unlabeled butter samples to an independent lab they regularly contract with. Maybe that extra two percent really pushed this butter from being good (like it’s honorable mention cousin) to great. This high-fat layer, known as cream, can then be churned to bring the fat globules together and form butter. Scandinavian Journal of Primary Health Care: High Dairy Fat Intake Related to Less Central Obesity -- A Male Cohort Study With 12 Years' Follow-up, European Journal of Nutrition: The Relationship Between High-Fat Diary Consumption and Obesity, Cardiovascular and Metabolic Disease. European style butter contains more butterfat than the above two varieties. We bought all the butters at the same time and immediately put them into self-sealing plastic bags. Butters … But the Land O' Lakes crust seemed a good choice for sturdier uses like pot pies. Plenty of luxe types of butter exist on the market, but time-honored supermarket staples like Land O'Lakes can totally get the job done, especially in a utilitarian baking context. " But the lab results showed salt was less than .05 percent -- about the same as the other butters. The Land O' Lakes sauce, a pale lemon yellow, had the best balance, allowing the flavors of shallot, vinegar and wine to blend nicely into a whole. Even Land O' Lakes, the only national brand, and house brands like Safeway's Lucerne, crept over $4. It had a deep, butter flavor and a powerful, nutty aroma. Butter is a commodity, and wholesale prices are set largely through trading at the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. It’s created when cream is vigorously churned, which causes its solids (butterfat) and liquids (buttermilk) to separate, and ultimately results in the firm product we all know and love. The answer is butterfat. The difference is purely one of custom, rather than science, since milk and butter contain exactly the same kind of fat. Butter fat testing using Gerber method is one of the many quality assurance test procedures carried out in milk. Plugra, in particular, suffered from this. Along with 80% butterfat, the average butter sold in the United States contains about 16-18% water and 2-4% additional components, such as milk solids and sometimes salt. Butter (German: "die Butter") is made from butterfat in the cream of cows, sheep, and goats (and sometimes other mammals). One butter, Challenge, tasted so salty that we were sure it had been mislabeled as sweet butter. The Highest Percentage of Fat in the Milk of an Animal. Where Does the Fat Come From in Instant Oatmeal? -- 4. Anchor Like Kerrygold, Anchor is yellow because of the grass the cows are eating, compared to the white butter derived from the milk of corn-fed cows. Straus Family Creamery, a favorite of Chez Panisse's Alice Waters, had no pull date. Butterfat ranged from the legal minimum of 80 percent to nearly 86 percent. -- The Bottom Line: Cremerie Classique was the tasters' favorite. Before that, butter is 16-17% water and 1-2% milk proteins (also known as milk solids). The texture is slightly waxy. The Cremerie Classique cake had a pronounced sweetness and rose higher than Land O' Lakes but not as high as Straus, which rose the highest just out of the oven but ended up with the densest texture. Cremerie Classique. But, bottom line: It didn't do well in our tasting. In January 2000, multiple component pricing became the milk pricing system for about 90 percent of federal order milk production. At the same time, the water content in the butter is evaporating, and what’s left is pure butterfat. 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